Thom Browne Menswear Spring 2014
Umm…do you remember that time when we talked about stereotypes and pretty boys? Well, I forgot to tell you that the line between drag-queen-wannabe and pretty boys is very very thin. Don’t kid yourself, sometimes you want to laugh seeing boys wearing makeups, even though it is very thinly spread across their chins. Me too. But that laugh turns into a horrifying look when I see Thom Browne Menswear Spring 2014 collection. Gosh, those models look like a mix between scary hunk from military academy and drag-queen form the nearest cabarets. If Moulin Rogue ever did a collaboration with Hitler, this would be the perfect result. Okay, maybe I am entering my judgmental side once again, let’s go slow this time.
First, the inspiration is indeed from military, think Nazi without genocide, and people speculate that Browne used make ups on the boys’ faces because he wants to criticize gays in the military. Well, okay, I just hope he is on their sides because they already have a lot of enemies these days. Things get more interesting with broad shoulders, full skirt, long coats and navy’s symbols for the clothes. Now, let’s go to my opinion. This show explodes the standard ordinary menswear limit instantly. I don’t know why, but those make ups are totally out of my league. Maybe some high fashion people will say: that’s totally okay, it’s fashion! It’s high fashion!!
Uh-huh, I won’t say that because, even though I really agree with a lot of westren open-minded attitude, I am still a kid from downtown Jakarta (a bit pathetic to reveal thing like this) and those makeups (on men!) are just…wrong. The clothes are great though, Browne is an expert at tailoring, he proves himself with his strong and clean coats and very highly made suits. The materials aren’t bad either, with something like polyester that gives really edgy bad boys look, but all those cool impressions are thrown to cabaret club with those make ups.
Okay, maybe I will clear the air a little bit, the bad thing about the makeups is not the makeup itself. I am okay with boys wearing makeups whatsoever, in fact I sometimes adore the way designer create a clean look for men with makeups, making them somehow more attractive and masculine. But this show is just…too much. The smoky cabaret club’s room with striptease dancers and drag-queen yelling inappropriate things keep coming back in my mind. If Browne really means to criticize gay acceptance in military, I will praise his purpose. But I will not ease my comment about the show. There are a lot of good ways to criticize something and putting too much makeups on guys’ faces is not one of them. Maybe if you wear those clothes without makeups (or with clever makeups), they will look really cool. Maybe….
Taken from Style