Thom Browne Spring 2014
Bringing out insanity to the catwalk is not a spectacular thing in both fashion and artistic world. Alexander McQueen had done it before (that show with the glass, when people had to stare right into their reflections for hours?), Lady Gaga does it all the time in music industry, and some people are trying to replicate the instant moment of crazy imagination to clothes or other art forms. It’s quite sane actually to fall right into the ‘artistic madness’ for a short period of time. The difficult part is how people interpret those crazy feelings they just experienced to real art. Thom Browne is a few people that able to freely interpret those crazy moments of imaginations into physical forms, and he did it just right with mental asylum themed collection this season.
Okay, Thom Browne is probably not my favorite designer because he has such different aesthetic with me. Especially after he made an awfully drag-queen-like menswear show last season, which is not in impressive way. More like in depressing, upsetting way. But I am playing in objective side this time. No grudge, no overly sensitive eyes. Here we go….
The collection is indeed crazy, insane, creepy, wild, and dark (such an irony because he totally used white for the main color. Ordinary white, bone-white, pale white, sheer white, bleached white, etc etc etc). There are a few touches of humours, of course, shown by extra large pants (more like clown pants) and giant ruffles scattering on the clothes either as accessories or the main attraction (did you see the final number? A long gown with crazy 3D circular patterns. Cool. Just. Cool).
The models came up with extremely pale face, like they were just being hit by crazy amount of baby powder, dirty red lips and grandmas’ messy grey hairs, which make the whole show become even creepier. Actually the makeup is not really original because Browne took the inspiration from Joker and American Horror Story, which obviously explain the whole pale-face-grey-hair-dirty-red-lips makeup thing (hmm, Joker is not a really bad makeup inspiration, I always see him as a man trying to wear makeups for the first time. And the result is really realistic).
Browne did a wonderful collection this season.
There, I said it.
The extreme skills needed to make all those pieces and the courage he absolutely has to have to really explore the theme are two things people have to consider before criticizing his show (okay, okay, I DID NOT consider these things before. Sorry Browne). And, yes, he succeed in delivering both creepy dark mental asylum concept and more uplifting, wildly fun, enchanting clothes for people to watch. Just like any other amazing insanity-inspired collection though, are people crazy enough to wear them?
Images taken from Style.com