A few days ago, Jean Paul Gaultier announced his resignation from the ready-to-wear world in order to focus on haute couture. Even though it is true that the designer always prefer the glistening vision of expensive gowns and otherworldly shows, the shock still echoes around the industry. With another great designer stepping off the most affordable market of high fashion, who will replace his colorful design, attitude, and –most importantly- the excitement Gaultier always gives in his ready-to-wear show?
The need for young talent has never been higher. This time the industry is looking for the next high fashion ready-to-wear designer, which requires higher levels of talents, visions, experiences and stability in each collection. Requirements most of young designers don’t have. Except for Mary Katrantzou.
After experimenting with fabrics, patterns, prints, and movements, the beloved British designer took the pride of being the new ‘high-fashion’ designer. Fancied by Vogue’s Anna Dello Russo and Anna Wintour, plus getting a list of hot celebrities as frequent costumers, it feels just right to put more pressures on the young phenomenon’s shoulder.
This season Katrantzou put us in a planet called Earth. Ancient Earth. With newly formed tectonic plates, deep challenging sea filled with unknown creatures, and endless inspirations to pick from.
This time, however, she ditched her signature extra powerful prints and came up with entirely new approach. Sandy colors dominated the post-erupted-volcano runway, while straight clean pants and peek-a-boo dresses waved curiously around the models. A clean, simple, wearable collection. I can imagine young celebrities like Emma Watson (huge possibility), Dakota/Elle Fanning, Taylor Swift and Iggy Azalea waiting to get their hands on the collection.
It is hard to believe that a few years ago Mary Katrantzou debuted her first collection featuring buildings and gardens as prints for the fabric. A proof Mary Katrantzou is more than a bunch of colorful prints and pattern play. The designer took the risk of getting slammed for leaving her signature move. And I appreciate the courageous act. However, there is an undeniable feeling that Katrantzou is still exploring her own limits. A reason that makes her collection so unexpected yet feels undone.
I can’t wait to see Katrantzou final metamorphosis. Is it going to be on Fall 2015? Spring 2016? No one knows. But everyone is anticipating the Big Bang.
See the full collection here
Images taken from Style.com