Alexander Wang Spring 2014

Fashion weeks are so damn tiring! I rushed home today right after school and hopped onto my chair just to see the latest show (this is the real proof of how fashion geek I am). I saw tons of names lining up to be seen… yes, Victoria Beckham, Altuzarra, Christian Siriano and, of course, the coolest kid in town, Mr. Alexander Wang. I have repeatedly told you that the most delicate thing about this man (and his designs) is the energy. The young, cool feelings people associate with New York City. And they’re right. Alexander Wang is undoubtedly the king of coolness, sporty-chic, and…New York.

Today, the Balenciaga’s designer, brings his fashion house’s logo to the clothes. Literally. You can see Alexander Wang written all over the belt and as details, reminding me of 80s-90s trend, when logo was the biggest thing in trend encyclopedia. Wang said that the logo is just for fun, something that he feels missing from fashion industry. Okay then… whatever you say Wang.

It’s not the logo detailings that makes me green with envy for not having the…right requirements to wear the clothes though. It’s that classic Alexander Wang casual vibe. All I can see from the show is easiness, casual, and basic items with more precise cuttings and techniques. Only in Alexander Wang you can find a cropped top with micro shorts, and one-button-sexy shirt with casual printed-pencil-skirt look so cool. Not even in Saint Laurent. Man, this guy even doesn’t need heavy patterns and prints to make a good clothes. Master of Simplicity.

Ah, I thought the collection was almost too simple, but this one is more comfortable to wear than his previous collections. I guess that’s the price he has to pay for creating easy-to-wear (even more advanced than ready-to-wear because easy-to-wear has to be both chic AND.. well, easy to wear) clothes for everyone. Not just red-carpet butterflies.

Oh, Alexander Wang! You stole my heart again!!

P.S: The look I posted for main image above is just HOT. Super trendy!! Love the formality, stiffness, clean design. That jacket/top will definitely be the next trendy thing!! Go go go, buy it, rent it, steal it. I don’t care!

Images taken from Style.com

The Collection

The Atmosphere

Thom Browne Menswear Spring 2014

Umm…do you remember that time when we talked about stereotypes and pretty boys? Well, I forgot to tell you that the line between drag-queen-wannabe and pretty boys is very very thin. Don’t kid yourself, sometimes you want to laugh seeing boys wearing makeups, even though it is very thinly spread across their chins. Me too. But that laugh turns into a horrifying look when I see Thom Browne Menswear Spring 2014 collection. Gosh, those models look like a mix between scary hunk from military academy and drag-queen form the nearest cabarets. If Moulin Rogue ever did a collaboration with Hitler, this would be the perfect result. Okay, maybe I am entering my judgmental side once again, let’s go slow this time.

First, the inspiration is indeed from military, think Nazi without genocide, and people speculate that Browne used make ups on the boys’ faces because he wants to criticize gays in the military. Well, okay, I just hope he is on their sides because they already have a lot of enemies these days. Things get more interesting with broad shoulders, full skirt, long coats and navy’s symbols for the clothes. Now, let’s go to my opinion. This show explodes the standard ordinary menswear limit instantly. I don’t know why, but those make ups are totally out of my league. Maybe some high fashion people will say: that’s totally okay, it’s fashion! It’s high fashion!!

Uh-huh, I won’t say that because, even though I really agree with a lot of westren open-minded attitude, I am still a kid from downtown Jakarta (a bit pathetic to reveal thing like this) and those makeups (on men!) are just…wrong. The clothes are great though, Browne is an expert at tailoring, he proves himself with his strong and clean coats and very highly made suits. The materials aren’t bad either, with something like polyester that gives really edgy bad boys look, but all those cool impressions are thrown to cabaret club with those make ups.

Okay, maybe I will clear the air a little bit, the bad thing about the makeups is not the makeup itself. I am okay with boys wearing makeups whatsoever, in fact I sometimes adore the way designer create a clean look for men with makeups, making them somehow more attractive and masculine. But this show is just…too much. The smoky cabaret club’s room with striptease dancers and drag-queen yelling inappropriate things keep coming back in my mind. If Browne really means to criticize gay acceptance in military, I will praise his purpose. But I will not ease my comment about the show. There are a lot of good ways to criticize something and putting too much makeups on guys’ faces is not one of them. Maybe if you wear those clothes without makeups (or with clever makeups), they will look really cool. Maybe….

Taken from Style

Issey Miyake Menswear Spring 2014

Ah, okay, maybe I do like T by Alexander Wang and all designers that still stay simple for menswear this season, but I can’t say no to Issey Miyake. When I first saw the collection, I immediately thought about artists and how they dress for work. Simple t-shirts with a lot of colorful stains that somehow create quite an artistic patterns. I love it. It makes me feel more creative, well, maybe I am desperate to find inspiration source. I like the fact that Issey is doing something different to the classic plaid shirt, plaid shirt is like men’s little-black-dresses, but the difference is…there is only a handfull of designers who want to work with it (and that color blocking blazer looks promising as the-next-big-hit!). As the show went on, the artist feeling began to fade and replaced by uneasiness. Pink, granite black and strange abstract patterns came in not really cool ways. Maybe this is what Heidi Klum mean when she say: too costume-y, which is quite explainable in womenswear, but mens? Well, strange (or rare) case, mens are used to be under-dressed.

Tunic, shorts and pants come and go with reckless styling and rough attitude, I don’t know about you, but I feel like jumping from painter’s loft into an adventure in mountains with rebellious yet artsy travelers. Issey gives us one of the most colorful shows, some of the pieces are messy good, but some of them are just not my style (or anyone’s style).

I’ll give a lot of credits for his braveness in mixing colors, feel rebellious and fresh at the same time (it is hard to feel fresh in fashion, designers are easily ‘inspired’ by other designers). Even though, it becomes slightly annoying at one point on the show. I have to admit it is hard to balance the explosiveness of colors, they’re like bad kids and we are the parents, trying desperately (shouts, sweats and tears of shame involve)  to control their behaviors. Sometimes we’re good, other times….we are not. Now, the question is….what kind of parents are you guys?

Taken from Style

T by Alexander Wang Menswear Spring 2014

White, patterns, more exploration in colors, bold again an again. Those are what I’ve seen so far during menswear. I am not going to complain about the trends because I used to cheer designers to go explore the ‘other side’ of men’s style. So, no rain on your parade today. Phew! But I like to say that there is always one designer that play it different, even though not that different because the logic is: he stays the same while others play different. Uh, annoying logic. Okay, so the point is: T by Alexander Wang takes different approach with simple collection of black, sporty materials, simple (almost nothing special) items, and I instantly like the collection.

Starts with beige/creme-de-la-creme pieces, Wang continues the collection with white t-shirts and super cool shorts, after that masculine black comes in shapes of sport jackets and geometric-patterned sweaters before the collection ends…almost perfect. I think the reason I like the collection is not because the clothes are amazing, they’re cool but nothing worth to feel ‘OMG-this-is-insanely-great!!!!’ thing. I like it because it’s different than others. When other designers are fiercely chasing colors, Wang stays still and do the collection just like usual, staying true to his aesthetic and successfully blew me away. Sporty, a bit too simple, casual, and ignorant are men’s (and Wang’s) things, and I was too fired up in color-up-dude-trend that I forgot the ultimate point to make it into the menswear section. Shame on me. SHAME!!

Well, if you are a cool guy with great body who are looking for good clothes that don’t need too much special treatment, go to this guy, he knows you well. Promise. And, sorry Wang, I won’t join the fans lining up infront of your store because I will look like fat-panda inside your clothes (they look really soft and reveal the naked body’s silouhette of the wearer, which is great if you have abs. I don’t even have a flat-tummy). Bah! Let’s talk about Holiday-Weight later!

Taken from Style

Burberry Prorsum Menswear Spring 2014

Okay, you got me! I am ignoring the menswear season this year because I am really not in the mood writing reviews and copying pictures. Please, I need rest, can someone do the heavy works for me? Anyone? Yeah, blogging can be a sucker for your holiday. But I can’t resist the Burberry Menswear Spring 2014 temptation. Christopher Bailey succeed (again) in making delicious collection that every man wants to wear. Maybe not every man, but most of us. This season Bailey took inspiration from author and painter, Alan Bennet and David Hockney. It looks like the trio come from Yorkshire and agreed to bring back some of the old memories back to the runway, along with modernity and simple Englishman masculinity. I can see that.

The colors look exceptionally bold, cheerful, and artsy while still maintaining clean cuttings and simple items like sweaters and things that we (men) actually want to wear. One thing that makes me praise the collection even more is the use of polkadots. I have seen polkadots a lot of times in womenswear, but rarely see it in menswear. Bailey in the other hand, gives quite a pattern show with polkadot shirts, scarves and, as sweet addition, striped ties. It’s like Burberry finally gives some spaces for artsy-fashion and cheerful moods. Good thing because I almost forgot what else Burberry makes except trench coats and umbrellas (duh!).

Some people say that Burberry is loosing it’s identity when Bailey (and the rest of the team) decided to go global. But I don’t think so, Burberry is simply evolving like any other major brand. Here’s the deal: fashion is a very quick business, once you are in, you have to go follow the flow (sometimes you have to make some splashes, of course) and keep up with it. If Burberry still sticked with it’s classic gentleman attitude and don’t want to loosen up a little bit, uh…maybe we can think other places to buy trench coats.

Anyway, good job Mr. Bailey and no negative critics for you this season. Best regards.

Taken from Style

Gamu Moyo

Menswear is a tricky business. If you look closer, menswear designs never go anywhere dangerous or new. It’s not because menswear sucks or designers are lazy to observe new inspirations to create their designs. No, it’s simply because menswear’s items are pretty much the same. Same shirts with different patterns, same pants with different pockets, same coats with different buttons or zippers. That’s why people choose to go to womenswear designs where they can be really crazy and there are still some women who want to wear their clothes. After ruling the womenswear designs, they finally start to fall to menswear. In short, menswear is like a second choice, you can take it or you can leave it. Nothing really matters.

Thank God, there are a few design students that have enough sense not to take menswear design as something you can chew-then-spit-it, Gamu Moyo is one of them. Born in Zimbabwe and grew up in Johannesberg, Moyo is aware of different cultures and ethnics, making her designs pretty much contain those cultures. She admitted that she is a geek (eh, nope that’s my word) in gathering information about cultures. You probably are wondering why I talk about culture and her personal informations (is it personal?), it’s because culture is the main source of inspirations for designers. If you have open minded personality for other cultures, you will be easier to get inspirations and ideas. Moyo is a perfect example.

Her collection for Class Act Contest held by Kering and Parsons a few months (?) ago is a mixture between classic-simple/modern culture and exotic ones. The garments look unusual, there are a bit of messy style there and I really adore the way she styled the models, it’s like modern day-to-day style with a touch of uniqueness and something about Africa. Yeah, I know, but I really can’t describe the ‘africa’ feeling in words.

Anyway, I wouldn’t mind to wear those scarves and shirts. They must be pretty good on me…okay, they must be pretty good on every single man because not only cultural, Moyo’s collection is also wearable and sell-able. Hmm, the next phase for her is to carefully observe the mass market’s trend and not to get trapped too deep on that artsy-bitsy-holes. A lot of designers have fallen to that sticky hole before and as fas as I know (or care), they never come back.

Apart from that, Moyo along with her classmates are pretty much new-big-deals in the industry. Let’s support and watch them…carefully.

P.S: I also featured one of her classmates (is she?) and she is as good as Moyo, check it out!

Taken from Style

Pretty Boy

It’s been quite a while I am wondering about this one thing. Why menswear fashion show always looks pretty much unwearable and not really in-line with what people can take? Sometimes some of the clothes look pretty much too out-of-the-box. Like embroidered shirt from Alexander McQueen? Sure it looks really great under the spotlight, but I am not sure if there’s a man who wants to wear or even buy it. And don’t try to mention Bryan Boy. He is out of the league. In fact, every man-fashion-blogger should be considered in other gender category (I am suggesting: advanced-higher-evolution-man-type).

And if there is a man who wants to wear one of those clothes from fashion shows (we are talking about super short shorts (!) and multicolored shirts and anything that is considered out-of-the-box), he will be considered gay or metrosexual (and there will be a lot of eyebrows being raised). I don’t know about you, but it is pretty much what happens in my…neighborhood. It’s like there is a giant bubble of stereotype in the room about menswear and people are fine with it.

Examples: a man wearing a tight shirt with skinny/low rise jeans? Gay. A man wearing multicolored shirt with bold-colored pants? He can be either gay (again!) or One Direction’s fan (not a compliment) (pretty much the same with gay). But a woman wearing military jacket and cargo pants AND she is doing that bald Britney hairstyle? Oh God, she is rocking that tomboy-style again!

Eh, maybe we should make a new movement for men and their wardrobes. Men-ism?

Anyway, when I told my friends about this theory, they simply said: you are talking about pretty boy. Huh, pretty boy? Never heard of that term before and it didn’t sound really good. But they assured me that pretty boy is a not a stereotype or a teasing or bullying. It simply just a term to refer a man who doesn’t look macho and does care about his style. And the most important thing is: pretty boy is not the same as gay or metrosexual, they are just blessed with cute face and cool style. Well, I have to admit it’s better being a pretty boy than being stamped as One Direction’s fan (eh, I mean gay) by people. Ah, I am talking for the straight guys and don’t mean any harm for gays (you guys are also cool!!).

In short, maybe the real consumer target of menswear shows is not men at all. Maybe the whole parties and billion dollars clothes that drag editors from all over the world are created for pretty boys! Pretty cool, huh?

What do you think? Is this the right theory? Do you have other opinion?

Taken from Style Bubble

Alexander McQueen Menswear Spring 2014

One thing that people always remember about Alexander McQueen is how much he loved a theatrical show, it became his spirit and his designs and slowly embodied into his shows. Every single show used to be a giant opera with strong plots and finale. After his tragic death, I thought all those theatrical spirits would be gone to, leaving a lot of beautiful clothes with no emotions in it. Well, I am glad that I was wrong. Sarah Burton sure had learned something from her former boss and it included his theatrical spirit. This season’s menswear collection is no different. There was mystical atmosphere in the air, supported by smoke effect (or natural smoke?) and embroidered clothes.

People said that the show pretty much talked about environment with yellowish shirts and loose coats (and something about buttons?), it’s like Robinson Crusoe’s costumes before he got battered by storms and island and animals (I am blabbering. Believe it or not, I has never read Robinson Crusoe’s novel). Anyway, I feel more like it’s about magics and ceremonials. Maybe because those models’ ears look really sharp like elves with make ups and those clothes. Okay, I was freaking out a little bit because I thought Sarah Burton was inspired by Lord of the Ring whatsoever, which is not pretty weird but pretty geek for high fashion standard, but who am I to judge?.

And about the clothes, well, there is nothing too new about them (yawn, same shirt same coats same suits) except smart playing in patterns and embroidery. But those pants/shorts look a little bit too…strange. Casual mixed with royal-family-style. Uh, not really good. One more thing…that sleeveless suit somehow remind me of hotel’s butler/servant/bartender, I am not going to convince you guys to wear it. Believe me, conventional suit is still much better.

Taken from Style

Chanel Resort 2014

Resort? Pff… it’s not an actual season for most designers because they only have to make maybe 15 to 20 clothes (or don’t make anything at all because who cares about Resort when you have Spring fashion shows in few months from now?) and they’re done. But not for Kaiser Karl. The man of Chanel told medias that he thinks Resort as a real season (!) and creates a huge collection to greet it. Ugh, not an easy job. But nothing seems to be easy for Chanel show and Karl Lagerfeld. To make his guests tasted the real holiday spirit, Karl brought them all to Singapore, the Tiger of Asia and one of the most modern city in South East Asia, where money runs like waterfall in billion dollars stock markets and new malls popped up from the street almost every month along with Chanel’s expensive stores. Karl said it’s not about the money though (despite knowing that Chanel has more than 6 stores in Singapore -I saw none when I was there for quick holiday- and needs a serious event to keep them going), it’s about the inspiration and instinct for him. And his instincts leads the fashion industry (and some important medias) to Singapore.

I always adore Chanel collections and the fact that Karl also made some menswear pieces in the collection is quite surprising (in good ways). I also adore those monochromes and a little bit Asian sensation in patterns and cuttings (the collection is also inspired by Singaporean traditional black an white woven curtains). And who doesn’t love pearls (think Coco Chanel)? Hmm, but this won’t be my favorite from Chanel.

There is nothing wrong about them though. The monochrome styling is (again) just perfect for spring and summer at the same time (I can already imagine rich women playing in their pool parties with Chanel dresses and shorts), the pearl necklaces are dazzling in every way possible, I also adore the androgynous feelings those clothes give (think Coco Chanel again) and the dresses look luxurious as usual. But somehow I need something more vibrant and alive. Elegance and glamour are always nice, but there are times when I crave for giant explosion of colors and weird volumes… and forget about all those luxurious. To focus more on the artsy sides. I guess that’s not how Chanel rocks the boat… in Singapore.

Taken from Style

Central Saint Martins Fall 2011

Profesor Louise Wilson really got me this time. She had selected her 21 best graduates and made them worked like crazy in order to finally get a chance in London Fashion Week 2 seasons ago. I am really not familiar with the atmosphere of Central Saint Martins show or how it should be done. The only thing I notice is how long the show was. It was like a marathon of designers’ works and a lot of clothes, tons of models and make ups with one catwalk. It must be hard fighting for the spotlight.

21 designers means 21 reviews for each collection, but I really am not going to do that. Geez, my fingers will bleed to numb if I have to write that long. And your eyes would be watery and tired and you would end up cursing me and my blog and left me in here alone. Okay, too dramatic. The collections are too short to write about anyway. Well, these students sure know how to make clothes, but I am not sure if they know how to make a wearable collection. Everything seems to be really baggy and oversized and there are robes! A lot of robes-looked-alike dresses that makes me feel really uncomfortable.

William Henry made quite a simple, black on black collection, showing clean cuts and quite conservative style. But he managed to give a shock with blazing orange jackets in the end. Daniel Lee tried to experiment with twisting style and texture, combining yellow tops with beige/brown bottoms. Looks really familiar with Indonesian/Malaysian traditional clothes called Sarong, which is really not the best choice, if you want to take a walk in the city.

Helen Bullock came up a bit loose and colorful which is really fun, but maybe too ‘big’ and not really elegant for my style. Myrza De Muynck gave a lot of sportswear-like outfits which are sporty and a bit relaxed, I like it. But maybe next time she can make more outfits than jacket and pants. She can do more than this, I can feel it. Bethan Silverwood followed her friends and made robes-looked-alike dresses with splash of orange-stripes-patterns. I like the patterns, I don’t really like the ‘robes’. She can pull the pattern much better, if she choose to make oversized (but quite tight in the breast and stomach areas, like dress) sweater and just printed the pattern all over the sweater. Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida made quite funky collection with denim, I feel a bit vintage looking at their collection…and ripped apart. In one hand I like the denim ‘popped-up’, but I don’t really like the opening number.

Okay, the rest of them are amazing too. But one thing I noticed right after the show started is how they try to impress us by playing with materials and shapes and colors. They’re really fresh and ready to take on the world, but I feel like they’re also too avant-garde. Too… (I am sorry, I also hate this word as much as you do) naive. The clothes are amazing on the runway, but we have to sell them after fashion weeks and selling is different with making clothes. It can be much tougher with less credit. Still, it’s always great to see young, fresh, half-mature (in a good way) ideas and shows. I wonder, where are they now? Maybe working for great half-gods designers or starting their own online shops (everything seems to be online nowadays)?

Taken from Style

Jeny Postle

Daniel Lee

Rejina Pyo

William Hendry

Hellen Bullock

Myrza De Muynck

Shaun Samson 

Bethan Silverwood

Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida

Kathleen Kye

Jamie Cockerill

Charlotte Smith

Rafaelle Ascione

Sasu Kauppi

Maarten Van Der Horst

Ryan Strong

Viktor Smedinge

Phoebe English

Yeori Bae

Pietro Franch